Creature 2 speaker driver download

To fix your Drivers problems you will need to know the particular model of the Audio device you are having problems with. Once you have the details you can search the Audio website for your drivers and, if available, download and install these drivers.

If you are unsure of whether or not you need to update your Drivers, or indeed which Drivers may need to be updated, you can run a Drivers scan using a driver update tool you will need to pay to register this tool but usually the Drivers scan is free. This will allow you to assess your Driver needs without any commitment. Alternatively, you can use the device manager to check if there are problems with any of your hardware devices. Not to worry, though, as you can just glue the replacement speakers directly onto the black plastic socket that the housing was extracted from.

That will all make sense once you disassemble a speaker — a trivial process. So yes, you can fix your Creature II satellites for only a few bucks each. No exotic equipment is required. I used a small screwdriver, a small pair of pliers, and a hot glue gun. Took about 10 minutes each. Easy peasy. Have fun! Talking Tom Cat.

Clash of Clans. Subway Surfers. TubeMate 3. Google Play. The Best Black Friday deals. Bill Gates' favorite books of Biden OKs release of oil from strategic reserves. Resident Evil review. I placed the thin piece on a scrap piece of thicker plywood while making the cutouts to minimize chipping. Next, I glued the power LED, power input and audio input jack in place with 2-component glue. I placed an additional piece of wood in between the power input and audio jack so that the glue had more surface to stick to.

Note that I didn't put the power switch at this point. The volume and tone controls were going to go on the other piece of thin plywood. I only glued the volume buttons for now. The bass and treble controls would be simply screwed in place at a later time.

On the back of my speaker I cut openings where the two plywood panels would later go. These openings were cut just wide enough for the wires to go through. I wanted to have enough surface around the openings so that the plywood would stick well to the back. I needed to find suitable locations for the other circuit boards inside the enclosure of the sub. The small filter boards — the ones I took out of the satellite speakers — already had mounting holes in them, so I simply used short wood screws to mount them on the side of the box.

I also drilled small holes through which I could run the wires for the smaller left and right speakers. The input board also had a couple of mounting holes, but several tall components were sticking out. To secure the board to the back of the enclosure, I first glued a thin piece of plywood to act as a riser picture 5. Then I drove a couple of short wood screws through the holes.

No wires were soldered to the input board yet. I was planning to do this last, once all the woodworking jobs were done. This wasn't something I planned on doing, but I had to. When I placed the drivers inside the openings at the front, they were sticking out a bit too much. This was a problem as the piece of wood that was supposed to cover them will be shown in a bit wasn't going to fit.

The solution was to cut recesses for the speaker drivers. First, I marked the area covered by every driver with a pencil. I had to hold the pencil vertically for this step to get accurate markings.

Then I used a routing attachment for my Dremel tool and made several passes until the recesses were done. The speaker drivers were now laying flush with the front piece. To make the speaker look good, I wanted to make a cover of sorts for the front so that I could hide the plywood and the uglier bits of the speakers. I started by laminating two pieces of American white oak wood.

They were 6mm thick and measured 10 by 45 centimeters. I bought the pieces several months ago on Etsy from a store called AlwaysHobbies and I was happy that I was finally going to use them in a project. Once the glue was dry, I cut the oak piece to size and sanded down its faces to eliminate the marking left by the glue up.

Then I made openings for the speaker drivers using the same technique I described earlier. I spent a lot of time sanding the edges of the openings to make them smooth and uniform.

Since the screws for the small speakers were still sticking out somewhat, I decided to carve small indents on the back side of the oak piece. To know where I had to carve, I dropped a small drop of nail polish on the tip of each screw, then pressed the piece against them so that the polish would leave a mark.

It worked perfectly! Finally, I took the piece out and gave it a nice coat of spray lacquer. If the grain raises, give the piece hours to dry completely, sand it lightly, and apply another coat of lacquer. For the top and sides of my speaker, I chose to use mahogany wood panels.

They were darker in color, which I expected to create a nice contrast with the lighter oak piece in front. The mahogany wood panels were also bought online from AlwaysHobbies. I cut them to size and glued them flush with the top and front of my speaker. These two wood panels were the most expensive component of the entire build, but they looked so much better than bare plywood! Once the top and side pieces were glued in place, I sanded them finely and thoroughly, then rounded the edges for a nicer look and feel.

Using a few damp paper towels, I wiped all the fine wood dust that had accumulated on their surface. This makes the finish look better. Before applying the lacquer, however, I glued the two panels with the buttons and inputs to the back.

I wasn't too worried about getting a bit of spray lacquer over them, though I did put a paper towel in the bass reflex port so that nothing would go in. I also covered the openings for the speakers in the front with paper. Next, I gently applied multiple coats of spray lacquer to the top and sides. I applied just two light coats to the back.

Picture 2 and 3 show the speaker before and after the application of finish. Time to bring out the soldering iron again. With nearly all wood pieces in place, I now had to complete all the wiring before sealing the speaker. First, I drilled the necessary holes for the wires to pass through. I wish I had planned ahead, as drilling these holes with my tiny drill was a long and tedious task.

With the holes drilled, I hooked up the speakers, input wires and power cables to the correct boards. I used 2-component adhesive to hermetically seal the holes again so that no air would pass through. For the tone controls, I used JBL's original caps.

There was nothing fancy about the bottom that I made. It was simply a piece of plywood cut exactly to size. Note that the inner support pieces are recessed by 1 centimeter relative to the outer walls — exactly the thickness of the bottom piece. I drilled pilot holes in the four corners of the bottom piece and then secured it in place with screws.

And that's how this project came together! It was long, tiring, and cost me several sleepless nights as I was trying to catch the deadline for Instructables' Audio Contest, but I think the effort was worth it. If I had more time, I would have probably applied a few more coats of finish, but the speaker does look good even as it is. I may also open it back up and fine-tune the sound using some acoustic dampening material to reduce some of the boominess. But overall, I'm pretty happy with how the speaker turned out, and I hope that you learned something new!

If you liked this project or if you think that I could have executed something better, I'd appreciate it if you let me know in the comments!